“One’s
destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” – Henry Miller
Molweni!
I
haven’t posted for a week, so this is a monster blog post- bear with me. On
Tuesday of this week, we traveled to the District 6 Museum. This museum was
established in honor of the people who were forced out of District 6 in Cape Town during apartheid.
The area was made into an all white area, so any black or “colored” (official South African term for the
country's mixed descent inhabitants) people were forced out. Many of
them were forced from happy lives into overcrowded townships far away from
their work, schools, and friends. Communities were disrupted and displaced.
They had a huge cloth with many embroidered messages from former district 6
residents. They were heart wrenching to read. A couple that stood out to me:
“We all grew up as a family (all races) Life was beautiful then. And the gates
of memory never close.” And “Happy days. District 6- Living was cheap, life
precious. Now in Hanover Park Living’s expensive and Life is cheap.” One
of the program’s drivers, Kimie, grew up in District 6 and his family was removed
from the area. He was with us at the museum and his presence ad story made the
trip all the more meaningful. Currently, they are rebuilding in district 6
so his family has an application in to return to the area. At the same
time, he said for many the memories are too painful to ever think of returning
there.
That
night, we were introduced to a man named Themba. He is a part of an organization
that runs workshops that essentially revolve around music therapy for those who
have had traumatic events especially relating to apartheid. He performed a
few songs for us that were really touching and full of African history. He also
brought in drums and instruments for each of us and taught us some beats.
I know some of you (Dan) think I can’t keep a beat for the life of me, but
Themba says: “If your heart beats, you’ve got the rhythm.” It was such a
special night and it really reinforced how healing and connecting music can be.
On
Wednesday, we went to a braai place in Gugelethu Township
called Mzoli’s. It was also the 4th of July, so this was perfect!
Apparently, this place is a huge hot spot for people in the township on the
weekends, and many people go here to eat and listen to music. After that
we headed to Zolani, where an amazing youth dance group performed. They told
the story of recent South African history through song and dance and was one of
the coolest performances I have ever seen. After that, a few girls and I
went to the waterfront on a sunset cruise. To give you an idea of the weather
here, for the cruise I wore 5 layers on top, jeans and leggings, and three
pairs of socks. On the cruise they gave out blankets and it was still cold!!
But, we had so much fun, and saw a beautiful sunset, and a whale! Which Kelly
claims is the same whale she saw while Para gliding, maybe he will follow
her home to North Carolina,
too. Right from there some of us headed out for Indian food….I’ve
actually never had it before and it was so good! Especially garlic and cheese
naan, seriously yum. Then, we went home and enjoyed a bonfire the staff
was nice enough to set up and some s’mores or SAMORES (Emily) and
sparklers since it was the 4th of July! A very different 4th
of July, but amazing!
On
Thursday, we had our farewell dinner at a Mexican restaurant. The sadness
beginsL The next day was Sophie’s
last day at Luthando and my next to last. I am sure going to miss those little
buggers. As crazy and chaotic as that place is, it and the kids will always
have a place in my heart. The last day we did face paint and bubbles, sang
songs, and played a few games. I will see them again on Monday, so I am
grateful to have one more day.
Late
Friday, Sophie’s parents came in since they are traveling on a safari when the
program ends. They took a few of us out for a delicious Thai dinner at the
waterfront. Thanks, Caryn and Steve! In case anyone’s keeping track that’s
Indian, Mexican, and Thai dinners all in a row. Later Friday night, we
ended up at the weirdest rave –like club for about 5 minutes, then home to sleep.
On
Saturday, we went to a fantastic place called Old Biscuit Mill. It is a
farmer’s market in town with delicious food and so many cute shops. It’s almost
a Parisian like setting, with music playing and adorable décor. I didn’t
eat very much- only a chocolate crepe, macaroons, a pizza, foccacia bread, a
smoothie, and a million samples of dips and hummus. SO GOOD. The rest of the
day Saturday was very sad. Little by little, most of my new friends left me to
travel home. (I booked a few extra days, so I am here till tomorrow) At the
same time, a new group of people came in. So now the house is very full of new
people and it is just not the same! Missing my buddies, but I am lucky enough
to room with Sharon
my 2 extra nights here. We are super besties, so this is awesome.
That
night, with heavy hearts from all the leaving going on, a few of us headed out
to a performance at City Hall in Cape
Town. The building is so beautiful. There were two
South African groups playing- Madala Kunene and Caiphus Semenya. They were both
fantastic and so much fun. The crowd was so into everything. Both groups were
great, but I really enjoyed the second group with three female backup singers
and dancers, and really upbeat music. At a few points, some type of dance broke
out that everyone knew. Sharon and I tried to participate but mostly tripped on
each other. There was also a dance circle. Luckily I was just an observer of this,
and it was really fun to watch. It was a really great way to end a sad day.
This
morning, I had a trip scheduled to Robben
Island (where Nelson
Mandela was imprisoned for 27 years) but it was cancelled due to rough seas.
The weather is awful today. We are mostly lounging around, and tonight I will
finish packing my things. I leave at
3:50 to catch my flight at the airport tomorrow. It’s been a good day for
reflection as well and I’m leaving Cape
Town feeling so fulfilled and fortunate for the
experiences, knowledge, and new friends I have gained on this trip. Cape Town is a beautiful
place with a sad and troubled history, and many difficult problems to face
ahead, yet there are so many working hard to make things better here. I couldn’t
be happier that I made the decision to come and I can only hope I will be lucky
enough to return someday. I could say more but it’s difficult to put these
feelings into words. For all the people who reminded me to take lots of
pictures—no worries, I think I have about 1000+. (I will put them on facebook
and post a link on here) Can’t wait to come home to warm weather, my hubs, my
kitties, and family and friends. Love you all and thank you for keeping up with
my journey.
Hamba Kakuhle.
